Nantucket History

Nantucket in a Nutshell

By Elizabeth Oldham

From the bluff at Sankaty Head in Siasconset and looking eastward straight across the Atlantic Ocean to Spain, it is not difficult to imagine in the mind’s eyesight the bark Concord. This ship was under the command of Bartholomew Gosnold, tacking alongshore on a late summer’s day in 1602.

The vessel had embarked from Falmouth, England, and having passed around Cape Cod was bound for the Virginia colony. Gosnold did not go ashore, but was the first to chart the island’s location, a remote remnant of “the glacier’s gift.”

For the next several decades Nantucket would continue to be populated solely by some 3,000 natives of the Wampanoag tribe whose subsistence depended on what they could grow, hunt down, or take from the ponds and shorelines. There would be no incursion of Englishmen until 1641, when the island was granted to Thomas Mayhew and his son, also named Thomas. They were merchants from Watertown and Martha’s Vineyard. The deed was given by the authorities in control of all lands between Cape Cod and the Hudson River.

From their base on Martha’s Vineyard, the Mayhews not only grazed sheep on Nantucket but had zealously Christianized much of the native population, who would come to be known as Praying Indians. The Mayhews owned the island and would hold onto it until 1659 when they sold it to nine solid citizens from the Merrimack Valley who were seeking to improve their circumstances. Among them were Tristram Coffin, Thomas Macy, Christopher Hussey, and Richard Swain, whose names would resonate throughout Nantucket’s history. A contemporary true copy of the purchase agreement suggests that it may have been Thomas Macy’s occupation as a merchant and clothier that prompted Mayhew Senior to include in the purchase price: thirty pounds sterling.

Although the purchase of Nantucket from the Mayhews was primarily a business venture, they quickly became the first settlers. Thomas Macy, who had had a doctrinal run-in with the town fathers in Salisbury, wished to extricate himself from the increasingly repressive conditions being imposed by the Puritans of the Massachusetts Bay Colony.

Thus, in the late fall of 1659, the Macy family, with several neighbors and friends, twelve people in all, sailed in a small boat bound for Nantucket. They took a path rounding the hook of Cape Cod, at last coming ashore at the west end of the island. Fortunately for the settlers, the Wampanoags were friendly.

Had it not been for their hospitable succor during the long cold winter in Madaket, the newcomers might have starved or frozen to death. It would be a long time before those hardy souls would be followed in sufficient numbers to form a community. By 1700, only about 300 white people and 800 Indians were living peacefully with one another, though the native population had been decimated by diseases introduced by the Europeans.

Nantucket, along with Martha’s Vineyard and the Elizabeth Islands, was attached to the New York colony until 1692 when by act of Parliament it became a part of the Bay Colony of Massachusetts. The first town was established around a natural harbor on the north shore and was called Sherburne. However, that harbor was silted up and by the end of the eighteenth century. Houses, businesses, and most of the citizenry had moved eastward to the Great Harbor, where it stands today. In 1795, the town was named Nantucket.

Conquering the “Watery World”

With the arrival of English settlers, the distant land of Nantucket, as it is translated from the Wampanoag language, grew into a community of small farmers and sheepherders. In addition to farming the land and hunting small game, the natives and the newcomers took sustenance from the waters surrounding Nantucket. Varieties of finfish, particularly cod, and shellfish abounded around Nantucket.

Species of small whales occasionally washed ashore and were prized for their oil. But, by the 1690s the Nantucketers had begun to organize expeditions in small boats to pursue the “right” whales. These whales were so-called because they were of moderate size and slow-moving. Therefore, they were easy to catch when passing close to shore on their annual migrations.

Whale houses with elevated platforms were established along the south shore. When the spouting whales were spotted, the boats set off through the pounding surf to capture them. They were towed to shore and the carcasses stripped of the blubber that would be dried out to extract the valuable oil.

Deep-sea whaling began around 1715, a few years after the first sperm whale had been taken by a sloop blown out to sea in a gale. Oil from the “head matter” of this gigantic creature was found to be of a quantity and quality unmatched by any natural or manmade product then available.

But the great sperm whale inhabited the deepest parts of the oceans, so Nantucket men began to make offshore voyages of fifty miles or more. However, they needed to be within reach of shore to offload their catch and have it processed. By the mid-eighteenth century, larger whaleships were being built and became seagoing factories, with all the equipment needed to extract and store huge quantities of oil. For the next hundred years, Nantucket whaleships would traverse the oceans of the world on their legendary three-, four-, and five-year voyages in search of “greasy luck.”

Back on the island, the economy was centered on the whale fishery with ropewalks, cooperages, blacksmith and boatbuilding shops, ship chandleries, sail lofts, and warehouses. Supporting businesses such as seamen’s boarding houses, grog shops, clothing shops, purveyors of groceries and dry goods sprang up. When the whaleships came back to port, their precious cargo was sold at great profit to mainland refineries for use in domestic lamps and street lights and myriad industrial uses.

Candles made from the solid spermaceti wax derived from the head matter were the finest household illuminants yet known. These candles were produced in enormous quantities on the island, accounting for some of the impressive fortunes amassed in the industry. The town was a bustling, vital, commercial center, with the sleek vessels of the China trade bringing home porcelains, silks, and exotic artifacts. For almost a century and a half, from the early 1700s to the late 1830s, Nantucket was the whaling capital of the world. As Melville wrote in Moby-Dick: “Thus have these . . . Nantucketers overrun and conquered the watery world like so many Alexanders.”

Throughout that period the island’s political, economic, and religious leadership was dominated by the Religious Society of Friends – the Quakers. Their experience of persecution in England to begin with and subsequently in the New World, led them to Nantucket’s shores. Although they were not welcomed with open arms, they were at least tolerated.

By the turn of the eighteenth century, the Friends had secured a hold upon the islanders such as no other religious denomination had ever acquired. Their rejection of worldliness, their spurning of adornment, and their lack of sympathy for anything calculated to make earthly life happy or even pleasant did not prevent them from having an astute business sense; many of Nantucket’s first families: the Starbucks, Barneys, Coffins, Macys, Folgers, Gardners, Husseys, Colemans, Worths. Quakers all would be pre-eminent in the conduct of the whaling industry.

Greasy Luck Runs Out

The palmy days would not last. A series of events over a period of about thirty years would see the “Nation of Nantucket,” as it was dubbed by Ralph Waldo Emerson, brought to its knees. In the 1830s, the petroleum fields of Pennsylvania were producing kerosene, cheaper and more easily obtainable than the liquid gold the whalers pursued.

A devastating fire, the Great Fire of 1846 roared through the night and left the town a smoldering ruin and a hundred families homeless and destitute. The years-long whaling voyages were horrendously costly and the whaling grounds had been overfished. A sandbar at the entrance to Nantucket’s magnificent harbor prevented the much larger and heavily loaded whaleships from approaching the wharves. Hence, they had to be off-loaded outside the bar or carried over it in an ingenious floating drydock called the “camels.”

The mainland ports of New Bedford and Salem had access to the burgeoning railroads. Gold was discovered in California and hundreds of Nantucket men went there to seek their fortunes in the earth as they had been sought in the sea. The Civil War would strike the final blow: almost 400 Nantucket men took up the Union cause with seventy-three of them losing their lives.

Their families on Nantucket with no economic infrastructure in place would have hard times. The once-bustling waterfront was filled with rotting hulks; there was no industry that could succeed or replace the whale fishery. Between 1840 and 1870 the population of Nantucket decreased from almost ten thousand to a little more than four thousand.

The demise of whaling coincided almost exactly with the dwindling influence of the Society of Friends. Torn apart by decades of factionalism, the Quakers faded out of the picture. They left as a heritage the pristine little town – and, of course, two centuries of dynamic history.

Nantucket Redux

The summer visitor would be the catalyst for Nantucket’s recovery. As early as 1828, island entrepreneurs were touting the necessary, invigorating, and delightful indulgence of Sea Bathing. By 1845, several large hostelries had been established, and that summer the editor of the Nantucket Inquirer wrote “We see by the papers that Nantucket is becoming quite a fashionable place . . . and that a larger number than usual have resorted to the island in the present season, in quest of health or pleasure. . . . If suitable accommodations were provided, both in town and at Siasconset, [the island] would take a prominent station among the watering places, which collect their crowds during the summer months.”

The selling of Nantucket began in a big way in the 1870s. Mainland newspapers carried advertisements for the big hotels, several of them still here today. Respected monthly magazines of the day – Scribner’s, Harper’s, Lippincott’s – sang the praises of the faraway island in lengthy feature articles.

With the war behind them, Nantucket women opened their homes to summer boarders and provided “large airy rooms” and “nicely cooked bluefish” as attractions. The town got behind the effort, advertising “two boats a day” and printing a flyer titled “ Nantucket Island, An Ideal Health and Vacation Resort.” The Season was created, and Nantucket has never looked back.

Now one of the most popular and attractive destinations in the world, Melville’s little “elbow of sand” has become a new Nation of Nantucket. It’s unparalleled in the distinction of its architecture and its historical ambiance. Reprinted from “Historic Nantucket,” Winter 2000, Vol. 49, No. 1, by permission of the Nantucket Historical Association.

Demographics and the Change of Nantucket’s Population

Nantucket’s population has also changed significantly over the centuries. The island was originally inhabited by the Wampanoag people, who lived in small villages and relied on the land and sea for their sustenance. The arrival of European settlers in the 17th century brought significant changes to the island’s demographics.

The early European population was primarily made up of English settlers, many of whom were Quakers seeking religious freedom. These early settlers established small farming and fishing communities, which gradually grew over time. By the 18th century, Nantucket’s population had increased significantly and was driven by the growth of the whaling industry.

During the height of the whaling era, Nantucket was home to a diverse population. This included people from various European countries, as well as African Americans and Native Americans. The island’s whaling fleet attracted sailors from around the world and made Nantucket a melting pot of cultures and languages.

In the 19th century, the decline of the whaling industry led to a decrease in the island’s population. Many residents left Nantucket in search of better opportunities on the mainland or in other parts of the world. By the late 19th century, the island’s population had reached a low point, with many buildings abandoned and the economy in decline.

However, the arrival of summer visitors in the late 19th and early 20th centuries brought new life to the island. Wealthy tourists from the mainland began to buy and restore the island’s historic homes. As mentioned before, this lead to a revival of Nantucket’s economy and a resurgence in its population.

Today, Nantucket is home to a year-round population of around 11,000 people, with that number swelling to over 50,000 during the summer months. The island’s residents are a mix of longtime Nantucket families, seasonal workers, and retirees. All are drawn to the island’s rich history, natural beauty, and vibrant community.

Geology and Geography of Nantucket

Nantucket’s history is also connected to its dynamic geology and geography. Located 30 miles south of Cape Cod, Nantucket’s position in the Atlantic Ocean has long defined its character and influenced its culture, economy, and climate.

The island's landscape is a complex mix of coastal environments, including salt marshes, dunes, and heathlands. This diverse topography was shaped not only by ancient glacial processes but also by ongoing natural forces, such as erosion and sediment deposition. The island's constantly shifting coastline is both a challenge and a defining feature that contributes to Nantucket’s unique way of life and its historical development.

Nantucket’s geography has played a pivotal role in its history, particularly in its development as a maritime hub. The island’s strategic location made it an ideal base for whaling ships venturing into the Atlantic. Its natural harbors provided essential safe anchorage, while the surrounding waters offered relatively easy access to the rich whaling grounds of the North Atlantic.

However, the very geography that once supported Nantucket’s prosperity now presents significant challenges. The island is increasingly vulnerable to the impacts of climate change. This includes rising sea levels and more frequent and severe storms. Coastal erosion threatens the island’s infrastructure, historic sites, and natural habitats. This has prompted efforts to envision and implement more resilient strategies for the future.

In response to these challenges, Nantucket is reimagining its relationship with the sea and its environment. Efforts to protect and preserve the island's landscape while preparing for the inevitable changes ahead are vital for maintaining the island’s cultural and historical legacy. The ongoing work to enhance Nantucket’s resilience shows the importance of understanding and adapting to the island’s ever-changing geography.

Climate and its Impact on Nantucket’s History

The climate of Nantucket is another factor that has influenced its history. The island experiences a maritime climate, with mild winters and cool summers. This temperate climate has made Nantucket a popular summer destination for centuries and attracted visitors looking to escape the heat of the mainland.

The mild climate also played a role in the island’s agricultural history. Early settlers were able to grow a variety of crops, including corn, wheat, and rye, as well as raise livestock. The island’s climate also supported the growth of the cranberry industry, which became an important part of Nantucket’s economy in the 19th century.

However, the island’s location in the Atlantic also makes it vulnerable to storms. Hurricanes and nor’easters have battered Nantucket over the centuries. This has caused damage to buildings, ships, and infrastructure. Despite these challenges, the resilient community of Nantucket has always rebuilt and continued to thrive.

The Legacy of Nantucket’s Whaling History

Nantucket’s whaling history has left an indelible mark on the island’s culture and identity. The legacy of the whaling era is evident in the island’s architecture, with many of the homes and buildings in Nantucket’s historic district dating back to the 18th and 19th centuries. These buildings come with their weathered gray shingles and white trim and have become iconic symbols of Nantucket’s past.

The island’s museums and historical sites also reflect its whaling heritage. The Nantucket Whaling Museum is housed in a former candle factory and is one of the island’s most popular attractions. This museum offers visitors a glimpse into the lives of the whalers who once called Nantucket home. The museum’s exhibits include harpoons, ship models, and a 46-foot-long sperm whale skeleton, all of which help to tell the story of Nantucket’s whaling past.

The influence of the whaling era can also be seen in Nantucket’s cultural traditions. The island’s annual Nantucket Maritime Festival celebrates its maritime heritage, with events such as boat races, maritime-themed crafts, and historical reenactments. The festival is a demonstration of the island’s enduring connection to the sea and its whaling history.

Arts and Culture in Nantucket

Nantucket’s rich history is mirrored in its arts and culture scene, which has become a significant aspect of the island’s identity. The island has long been a haven for artists, writers, and musicians drawn by its coastal scenes and the inspiration found in its historical and maritime heritage.

The Nantucket Art Colony which began to take shape in the late 19th century attracted a community of artists who were inspired by the island’s natural beauty and light. This artistic tradition continues today with numerous galleries and art studios spread across the island showcasing works that range from traditional maritime paintings to contemporary pieces.

Nantucket is also home to several cultural institutions that preserve and promote its artistic heritage. The Nantucket Historical Association plays a pivotal role in this, not only through its museum collections but also by hosting events such as the Nantucket Antiques Show and the Nantucket Arts Festival. These events celebrate the island’s artistic traditions and offer both residents and visitors an opportunity to engage with its cultural history.

The island’s commitment to the arts is also reflected in its performing arts scene. The Theatre Workshop of Nantucket is one of the oldest community theatres in the country and has been entertaining audiences since 1956. Its productions often draw on the island’s history, further intertwining Nantucket’s cultural and historical narratives.

Music is another integral part of Nantucket’s cultural fabric. The island hosts several music festivals throughout the year, including the Nantucket Music Festival and the Nantucket Chamber Music Festival, which bring together local and international musicians to perform in unique island settings.

Notable People of Nantucket

Throughout its history, Nantucket has been home to many notable individuals who have left a lasting impact on the island and beyond. These figures range from pioneering whalers and entrepreneurs to influential artists and writers.

Maria Mitchell is one of the most celebrated figures in Nantucket’s history. Born on the island in 1818, Mitchell became the first professional female astronomer in the United States. Her discovery of a comet in 1847 brought her international acclaim, and she later became a professor at Vassar College. Mitchell’s legacy continues to inspire, with the Maria Mitchell Association on Nantucket dedicated to promoting science education and research.

Another significant figure is Tristram Coffin, one of the island’s original settlers and a key figure in Nantucket’s early development. Coffin played an important role in the purchase of Nantucket from the Wampanoag people and helped establish the island’s first European community. His descendants are some of many of whom became influential in the whaling industry and are still prominent on the island today.

Herman Melville, although not a resident of Nantucket is inextricably linked to the island through his literary work. Melville’s Moby-Dick immortalized Nantucket as the whaling capital of the world and cemented its place in American literary history. The influence of Nantucket’s whaling culture on Melville’s writing is a testament to the island’s far-reaching impact.

In art, Eastman Johnson is a notable name. Often referred to as the “father of American genre painting,” Johnson spent time in Nantucket, where he created some of his most iconic works. His paintings of island life in the 19th century provide a valuable visual record of Nantucket’s cultural history.

Nantucket has also been a haven for writers, with Nathaniel Philbrick being one of the most prominent contemporary authors associated with the island. His book In the Heart of the Sea recounts the true story of the whaleship Essex, which inspired Melville’s Moby-Dick. Philbrick’s work has brought renewed attention to Nantucket’s maritime history and its role in American literature.

These individuals have shaped the history and culture of Nantucket, leaving legacies that continue to influence the island and its people.

The Role of Great Point Properties in Preserving Nantucket’s History

As one of the largest real estate firms on the island, Great Point Properties has a responsibility to preserve Nantucket’s rich historical and cultural legacy. The firm’s deep roots in the community and extensive knowledge of the island’s real estate market enable it to guide clients in making informed decisions that respect Nantucket’s history.

Whether it’s helping clients find a historic home in the heart of Nantucket’s old town or assisting in the restoration of a property in Sconset, Great Point Properties is committed to maintaining the island’s architectural integrity and cultural heritage. By working closely with clients, local historians, and preservation organizations, we guarantee that Nantucket’s past continues to be a vital part of its present and future.

FAQ Section

How did Nantucket come to be the whaling capital of the world?

Nantucket became the whaling capital of the world due to its strategic location, skilled maritime community, and the island’s early adoption of deep-sea whaling techniques. By the early 18th century, Nantucket had developed a robust whaling industry that sent ships across the globe in search of valuable whale oil. The island’s whaling fleet was renowned for its efficiency and innovation. It made Nantucket a leader in the global whaling trade.

Can I swim in Cape Cod?

Yes, you can swim in Cape Cod. However, be aware that the waters can be chilly, even in the summer. The beaches of Cape Cod offer a range of swimming experiences, from the calm waters of Cape Cod Bay to the more turbulent waves of the Atlantic Ocean. Always check local conditions and be mindful of potential hazards, such as strong currents and marine life.

Can you do Historic Nantucket in a day?

While it’s possible to visit some of Nantucket’s historic sites in a day, truly experiencing the island’s rich history requires more time. A day trip might include a visit to the Nantucket Whaling Museum, a walk through the historic district, and a tour of one of the island’s lighthouses. However, to fully appreciate Nantucket’s historical and cultural significance, consider spending a few days exploring its many museums, landmarks, and preserved natural areas.

Why is Nantucket famous?

Nantucket is famous for its role in the whaling industry, its well-preserved historic architecture, and its status as a premier summer destination. The island’s rich maritime history, natural beauty, and charming New England character have made it a popular destination for visitors from around the world.

Why are there so many Jamaicans on Nantucket?

The presence of a significant Jamaican community on Nantucket is largely due to the island’s seasonal economy, which creates a demand for workers in the hospitality and service industries during the summer months. Many Jamaicans have come to Nantucket for these job opportunities and have since become an integral part of the island’s community.

What are some interesting facts about Nantucket?

Nantucket is known for its unique history and cultural heritage. The island was once the whaling capital of the world, and its historic district is one of the best-preserved in the United States. Nantucket is also home to one of the oldest working windmills in the country. Also, its cranberry bogs are among the oldest and largest in the world. Additionally, the island’s distinctive weathered gray shingle-style homes are a hallmark of Nantucket architecture.

Who were the original owners of Nantucket Island?

The original owners of Nantucket Island were the Wampanoag people, a Native American tribe that inhabited the island long before European settlers arrived. In 1641, the island was deeded to Thomas Mayhew and his son by the authorities in control of the land. In 1659, the Mayhews sold it to a group of settlers from the Merrimack Valley, including Tristram Coffin, Thomas Macy, and Christopher Hussey.